YOU’RE HOME - NOW WHAT?
Put all other dogs and critters inside so your new puppy can have the yard to himself.
Its best that he explore the backyard first, in case he needs to go potty or get a drink of water. You can be with him but don’t hover and don’t interact. (more on why we do this in the potty training section) Give him time to acclimate and go potty, once he finishes going potty (not during) offer lots of praise!
Now you can interact with him. Point out things for him to sniff, maybe playing with a toy, or break off a branch dragging it along the ground for him to follow/chase. These first interactions should be slow and more observant on your part than interactive. Let the puppy dictate what you do. Remember he doesn’t understand what is going on or why he is here yet. Its your job to be reassuring in those first moments but not overbearing. Remember that sometimes not doing something is a good teacher as well.
Once your puppy has gone potty, stretched his legs from the car ride, and seen a bit of the yard you can now introduce him to the house. If you have other dog(s) then put them outside now. Smell is a powerful thing in dogs and your other dog(s) will get to “meet” your puppy first though the sent he left in the yard. If your older dog is the excitable type you may want to have one person play with him a bit in the yard while the other shows the puppy the house. Remember it is important that your older dog be given just as much time and affection as your puppy during the puppy stage.
Now take your puppy inside go slowly and one piece at a time. Only moving on when the puppy is ready. Let him see the entire house even rooms he will not be allowed in for now.
Once your pup has had a look around and your older dog is a bit tired you can introduce them. Typically we find the yard or the largest (most used) space in the house to be the best options for this first meeting. Do not force the meeting. If your animals (dogs, cats, bird, etc.) are in the same room as one another they are likely aware of each other. Animals are a lot more observant than we give them credit for. If they want to interact they will, it is important that you just stay calm and relaxed. Your expectation is important in training and having the expectation that the meeting will go well resinates a lot to all species of animals.
DOG TO DOG INTRODUCTIONS
What you will likely see from the puppy:
- licking the muzzle of the older dog (a lot)
- he may also curve his body in a U shape offering his butt to the older dog
Some things you might see from the older dog:
- he will likely keep his head high or over the top of the pup
- he may try and look away from the licking
- sniffing the puppy rear
- he may pin the puppy down
- warning growl to get the licking to stop
- he may even show his teeth
These are all normal interactions. The puppy is saying I submit to your dominance and show this by licking (ya those really are not kisses, they are a sign of submission) and offering his most vulnerable areas, while the older dog asserts his dominance by keeping his head up then eventually telling the pup to go away with a growl and some teeth.
It is important that you know your older dog well enough to know when his growl is a gentle nudge and when/if he would likely hurt another dog. If your older dog is dog aggressive he will still likely accept a puppy into the house without problem. HOWEVER if you are at all concerned then you should have a trainer present to ensure a successful introduction.
AND THE BEAT GOES ON
Now that the puppy has met his new home and the entire family it a good time to section off the parts of the house he will NOT be allowed access too. Freedom is earned, not given. It is a lot easier to puppy proof one or two rooms and baby gate and/or close bedroom doors to the rest of the house then it is to try and keep the entire house safe. Only when the puppy has demonstrated good house manners do more and more rooms of the house get opened up to him.
FIRST TRAINING SESSION - PREPARING FOR NIGHT TIME
We recommend two crates, one in the living room and one in the bed room during the first few weeks until the puppy has some house manners and is potty trained. You can use your car crate as the living room crate instead of buying a third crate that you will eventually phase out.
While we don’t recommend any actual training in the first day or two as the puppy is already undergone a lot of stress just from the changes to his life, it is a good idea to give him a quick crate training session to help with your night ahead.
When your puppy is tired and starting to look for a place to nap offer the living room crate by gently and slowly picking him up and placing him inside the crate. Sit there with him petting him until he calms and falls asleep again. Then quietly get up and walk away leaving the crate door open.
If he goes for a second nap before bed do the same thing again.
We don’t recommend treats or any food for the first 24 hours so an actual training session is hard but this will give him some positive associations with the crate and your expectation of sleeping arrangements.
Put all other dogs and critters inside so your new puppy can have the yard to himself.
Its best that he explore the backyard first, in case he needs to go potty or get a drink of water. You can be with him but don’t hover and don’t interact. (more on why we do this in the potty training section) Give him time to acclimate and go potty, once he finishes going potty (not during) offer lots of praise!
Now you can interact with him. Point out things for him to sniff, maybe playing with a toy, or break off a branch dragging it along the ground for him to follow/chase. These first interactions should be slow and more observant on your part than interactive. Let the puppy dictate what you do. Remember he doesn’t understand what is going on or why he is here yet. Its your job to be reassuring in those first moments but not overbearing. Remember that sometimes not doing something is a good teacher as well.
Once your puppy has gone potty, stretched his legs from the car ride, and seen a bit of the yard you can now introduce him to the house. If you have other dog(s) then put them outside now. Smell is a powerful thing in dogs and your other dog(s) will get to “meet” your puppy first though the sent he left in the yard. If your older dog is the excitable type you may want to have one person play with him a bit in the yard while the other shows the puppy the house. Remember it is important that your older dog be given just as much time and affection as your puppy during the puppy stage.
Now take your puppy inside go slowly and one piece at a time. Only moving on when the puppy is ready. Let him see the entire house even rooms he will not be allowed in for now.
Once your pup has had a look around and your older dog is a bit tired you can introduce them. Typically we find the yard or the largest (most used) space in the house to be the best options for this first meeting. Do not force the meeting. If your animals (dogs, cats, bird, etc.) are in the same room as one another they are likely aware of each other. Animals are a lot more observant than we give them credit for. If they want to interact they will, it is important that you just stay calm and relaxed. Your expectation is important in training and having the expectation that the meeting will go well resinates a lot to all species of animals.
DOG TO DOG INTRODUCTIONS
What you will likely see from the puppy:
- licking the muzzle of the older dog (a lot)
- he may also curve his body in a U shape offering his butt to the older dog
Some things you might see from the older dog:
- he will likely keep his head high or over the top of the pup
- he may try and look away from the licking
- sniffing the puppy rear
- he may pin the puppy down
- warning growl to get the licking to stop
- he may even show his teeth
These are all normal interactions. The puppy is saying I submit to your dominance and show this by licking (ya those really are not kisses, they are a sign of submission) and offering his most vulnerable areas, while the older dog asserts his dominance by keeping his head up then eventually telling the pup to go away with a growl and some teeth.
It is important that you know your older dog well enough to know when his growl is a gentle nudge and when/if he would likely hurt another dog. If your older dog is dog aggressive he will still likely accept a puppy into the house without problem. HOWEVER if you are at all concerned then you should have a trainer present to ensure a successful introduction.
AND THE BEAT GOES ON
Now that the puppy has met his new home and the entire family it a good time to section off the parts of the house he will NOT be allowed access too. Freedom is earned, not given. It is a lot easier to puppy proof one or two rooms and baby gate and/or close bedroom doors to the rest of the house then it is to try and keep the entire house safe. Only when the puppy has demonstrated good house manners do more and more rooms of the house get opened up to him.
FIRST TRAINING SESSION - PREPARING FOR NIGHT TIME
We recommend two crates, one in the living room and one in the bed room during the first few weeks until the puppy has some house manners and is potty trained. You can use your car crate as the living room crate instead of buying a third crate that you will eventually phase out.
While we don’t recommend any actual training in the first day or two as the puppy is already undergone a lot of stress just from the changes to his life, it is a good idea to give him a quick crate training session to help with your night ahead.
When your puppy is tired and starting to look for a place to nap offer the living room crate by gently and slowly picking him up and placing him inside the crate. Sit there with him petting him until he calms and falls asleep again. Then quietly get up and walk away leaving the crate door open.
If he goes for a second nap before bed do the same thing again.
We don’t recommend treats or any food for the first 24 hours so an actual training session is hard but this will give him some positive associations with the crate and your expectation of sleeping arrangements.